Friday, June 23, 2017

This is hard.


June 8-22

June 8, 2017. Accidentally showed my junk to strangers in a vehicle.

I like swimming in wild water, as I’ll call it. I can’t help it - every time I see a wild flowing stream or a clear-to-the-bottom lake, I need to be in it. Entirely. And preferably from a cliff or something. But in this instance, at Mono Basin (apparently salt water) and somewhere in the middle of the humungous state of California, it was an overflowing stream of snow-melt racing to get to the lake. You see, this rushing torrent of water had washed out the road that we were seeking overnight accommodations on, and we found a beautiful campsite basically right at the washout.  It had been a long couple of days, and, well, I was dirty. Where better to get clean than in a 32.5 degree mass of raging mountain water?  I stripped down and dunked into the water, I found myself to be lying spread eagle in too-shallow of a section, and as I got up to relocate, I found myself face to face with a shiny white Jeep Grand Cherokee full of (shocked) people that had driven down the road on the opposite side of the stream to find a hairy naked man lying spread eagle like a damned freak. Not knowing quite how to handle the situation, I sprung to action and ran to grab my towel, and disappeared into the bushes.  In the extremely unlikely case that you are the poor witnesses of this event and happen to be reading… the water was cold. Very cold.

well...

The scene of the exposure.

Flood zone campsite.

Check out Mono Basin in the Sierras, absolutely spectacular. Mountains, Desert, and Lake all smooshed together as one.  One of the best campsites so far, despite that unfortunate exposing event.



Somewhere in The Sierras
Mono Basin

Mono Basin from 9000 feet


This was all just a stop along our route to Sacramento, where we found ourselves after a quick run-in with California Border Patrol, who are obsessed with stealing your fruits, vegetables, plants, and firewood. I get it though - Japanese Beetles are the cause for such panic. Go ahead and google the affects of Japanese Beetles.

In Sacramento, we met up with our friends Matt and Maren, who we met on our honeymoon in April of 2012 and hadn’t seen since! They and their 2.8 kiddos +Ned [and a bunch of bourbon and rare (for NH boys) beers] kept us company for the few days that we stayed in town.  I utilized Matt’s elite expertise in welding to finally create a permanent bond between our bicycle rack and the proper frame members on the ole’ Jay Feather.  Odin One Construction Burn Unit 4 eva. We’re not worthy!

"Mexican Corn" - so so so delicious.

Let’s talk again about how hard it is to leave the comfort of friends….. No, let’s not.


Noteworthy Subjects:
-Northwestern Coast
-Redwood Trees (holy shit!)

towers
Giant Redwoods dwarfing our rig.
This girl.


Camping amongst these giant trees near the most beautiful beaches this country has to offer (if you don’t mind extremely cold water) is a strong feeling. Trees that you could drive through, if you had a chainsaw with a large enough bar to cut a hole.  And  dozens of elk…. get this… lying on the beach.  WHAT?!

North Pebble Beach - Crescent City, California

feeding the addiction in Siskiyou National Forest
Siskiyou National Forest


And then we parked in a brewery…. well, not IN the brewery, but within the gates…. so you get it.  My oldest friend (not in age, but in friendship length) Tim, who I have known since shortly after birth and who I grew up next to, has been with Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene, Oregon for several years, which was our next destination.  Great, great beers, most of which are very hop oriented, so they’re right up our alley.  Fresh Pacific oysters bought just down the street, so large that the best way to consume them is shucked into a small mason jar with lemon and cocktail sauce, but still eaten like a jello shot, with a couple of chews… just to make sure the loogie… I mean.. oyster receives the proper amount of respect.  Good times, Tim.

gatekeeper

fine accomodations

Oyster shot, anyone?

We had plans to meet up with a couple who we had actually met during our first week on the road (!) in the area of Bend, OR.  What could be a better location for a fine wine and cheese pairing than the absolute middle of nowhere!  It was quite nice to add a fancy feel to our wildly un-fancy lifestyle with some Columbia Valley wines and beautifully stinky cheeses. It was even greater to sit around the fire and tell travel stories with a like-minded couple.  Glad we were able to meet up with Joe and Nicole - they’re 4 months into a 4.5 month journey around the country, hosting events for their San Diego based business Gut Check Fitness. We all agreed that going back to a “normal” life after all of this was going to be nearly impossible… and improbable.  
Guys, If you’re reading this, it was so great to meet up! See you again on the road, we’re sure!


The Deckers and us!

Mt. Adams in the distance


So, we camped next to (really, like 50 feet from) a railroad at a FREE (who would pay?) campground. That was…. fun.  Truly a beautiful setting on the Columbia River despite the noise.

The Dalles, Oregon

The campsite near the railroad.

Fort Stevens State Park - Northwestern Oregon
Northern Oregon magic.

Cold, cold waterfall, after a hike up the canyon in waist deep ice water.


And now, we’re sitting at a rest area, looking nervously on to tomorrow, when we plan to cross into Canada on our way to Alaska… it seemed like the day would never come, and now that it has, I’m losing my mind.

1,834 miles from Sumas, Washington to Tok, Alaska.

We are certainly ready to get out of all of these cities, even though we skipped over SO many… mainly because they’re cities… and navigating, let alone finding a place to park, in a city while towing a trailer is somewhere down there on my fun list with jamming a pencil into my eye or sliding splinters under my fingernails.  

We’re about 8500 miles into this trip - That’s over 220 hours (nearly 10 days) of driving time. I hope that, in the end, this trip is all that we want it to be.  We are the only two that can make it to be that way.

Sometimes, the urge to turn East and make it home in 4 days is the most attractive option.  Those days, I find comfort in the words that Emily, our life coach, would have said… and probably did say: 


“You’ll never regret doing it, but you would always regret not doing it.”



Our nation's great raptor feasting on a dead seal.
an open Sea Anemone
Goonies never say "die"
Our last Oregon sunset for now.
travel companions


Smell ya later, USA. On to British Columbia for the next week or so.

Thursday, June 8, 2017

May 24-29 Moab, UT continued…

Happy Memorial Day! Hope everyone had a great long weekend!

We just pulled out of Dubinky Well Rd, in Moab. We unintentionally stayed here for 11 days. I’m not sure we were ready to leave but the shitter was full, literally. What else were we to do? 

Our days were spent with leisurely mornings, afternoon mountain bike rides, trips into town for water and food and juniper camp fires in the evening with 3.2% PBRs. We were fortunate to have Corey with us the entire time and Dee was able to make it out for the last few days. 

tunnel vision


Luckily we are only leaving with minor scrapes and bruises. Probably the most bruises I have ever had at one time. Ryan is slightly more beat up with skinned knees and elbows, he hucked his meat a lot more than I did. The bikes on the other hand took more of a beating. My brakes needed to be bled, both our rear brake pads replaced, I got a flat tire on our 20 mile ride and Ryan’s shock will need to be rebuilt very soon. After purchasing the bikes I thought for sure we wouldn't need to spend more money on them, boy was I wrong!

Jeep Arch, Moab

***

I can’t express how difficult it can be to leave familiar faces and places.  Don’t get me wrong, Emily and I are good company for each other, but it’s nice to have a little clan to hang out with around the campfire at night. We have spent most of the past  2 weeks with Corey and Dee and rotating friends of theirs.  It was so easy to say “What the hell, we’ll stay one more night”…… 11 times.  

Swimming in a canyon Pothole

The traveling thing is great, but it has its quirks.  The bikes have definitely improved our entertainment-level by giving us something to seek out everywhere we go.  Part of me was really wanting to drop anchor in Colorado or Utah and seek employment. This part of the country really has a lot to offer.  Dude, I saw dinosaur tracks… actual dinosaur tracks. We won’t get into how old Earth is… that’ll open up way too many doors.

Dinosaur tracks, seriously.

Ancient Rock Art


*This is an UNpaid advertisement*
If you do find yourself mountain biking in Moab, go to Poison Spider Cycles for your needs. Their customer service, knowledge, and professionalism far exceed that of any of the other shops in town (yes, I visited them all with the same problem, and the Poison Spider folks were the only ones to offer real help).

We’re here in Shonto, AZ now, right next to Navajo National Monument (worth a visit) at a FREE campground with bathrooms and drinkable water!  For the past 11 days, our trip to get water was about an hour round trip.  Not a whole lot to do around here, so we’re on to Flagstaff area tomorrow to find some sweet jumps to huck our meat off of.

Navajo National Monument - ancient Hopi dwellings

Navajo National Monument
May 30-May 31 Flagstaff, AZ (I think I could live here)

You know, we’re not high maintenance people but when you’re used to having 600 thread count sheets and your husband’s bionic leg hair rips a big hole in the fitted sheet and you need to buy a new sheet on a budget and it’s only 200 count….it sucks. It feels like sandpaper.  I guess I’m a princess, don’t mess with my sleep!

(It’s taking all I can do to not erase that - Ryan) 

On a more positive note, we are just outside of Flagstaff, AZ on a lake ,which is mostly dried up, but it is beautiful. Humphrey’s Peak which is the tallest mountain in AZ, is in the background. We can also get on the Arizona Trail right from here, which is a 790 mile biking/hiking/equestrian trail that goes through all of Arizona into Utah. 

We took a quick toot down the AZ trail after setting up camp. As we were cruising down the trail on the way back to camp, we could both hear something in the woods but didn’t dare take our eyes off the trail in fear of hitting a tree. Eventually we spooked 3 elk across the trail! They seem abundant around here, lots of elk tracks in the area. 

Every new place we land for more than a stopping point, we bring rain with us. Not sure how that happens… I honestly don’t mind it this time. After 11 days of hot and dusty Moab, it does feel good. 

(It usually rains right after I collect firewood - Ryan)

Roadside Elk in Flagstaff
We attempted to hike Humphrey’s Peak, the tallest peak in Arizona at 12,562’ above sea level. As we approached the saddle between peaks, people were headed down recommending we turn around. Five people passed us, two stating they saw lightning strike down and pea sized hail. We hoped the storm would pass by, so we hunkered down waiting. As soon as we thought the coast was clear, more lightning could be seen and hail would start again. I don’t think we have ever backed down from a hike before, but under the circumstances, it was the right call to turn back. We were told someone was struck by lightning last week up there, but what are the odds it would happen again? We didn’t want to be “those” tourists - every state has them - NH has MA and UT has CO. 

Whilst waiting for the weather to clear in the saddle, a dude from Phoenix recommended we go to the Lava Cave a few miles down the road. A 1 mile cave created by lava flow back in the day. We scrounged together whatever lights we could find and headed into the cave. It’s a humbling experience to be in place where your senses are taken away. The gift of sight is just that, a gift. It was still difficult to get around even with a light. Such a cool phenomenon.   

Emily entering the Lava Cave in Flagstaff - 1 mile long!

June 1-2 Sedona, AZ

Did you know that it’s 20 degrees cooler in Flagstaff, AZ than it is in Sedona, AZ? They are only 1.5 hours apart but the elevation makes a huge difference! We bailed from Flagstaff because we heard it was supposed to drop down to 39 degrees this evening… we’re all set with that.

Sedona at first glance seems like a less redneck Moab. They are so similar! 

After finding a suitable campsite, we came across a creek… 5 minutes down the same forest service road. A creek with no one else there, mind you! How refreshing to find this gem on a hot day and have it to ourselves. The water was crystal clear and just the right temperature. It will be the perfect afternoon hangout.

Sedona Campsite
View from Sedona Campsite

Does anyone know where we can find some cactus like the yoga pose, cactus arms? We are dying to seen some!

It’s day 49. We ran into an older man today while filling up with water, he also stayed at the same place we did last night. He and his dog have been on the road for 8 months. He is on his 4th vehicle that he has designed, complete with six 100 watt solar panels, 42 gallons of water and an electric washing machine. He says he can stay out of town for 10 days before needing to retrieve more water. He, like us, asked himself why wait for retirement? Will we be capable of traveling at that time? Will we even make it to that time in life? No one knows when our time is up and there has to be more to life than punching a clock. This man is living on $400 a month and expects to be able to make it 10 more years on his savings until he can collect social security. It just goes to show you, simple living can be so easy and rewarding. 

We woke at 6am to a weird noise. Three hot air balloons were flying overhead! A pleasant surprise.

Trying to beat the heat, we went right out for a mountain bike ride. The trails are very enjoyable and not too busy! We ran into very few people, except of course as soon as I pulled my pants down to pop a squat, then three dudes came barreling around the corner. Such is life. 

Agave along Mountain Bike trails in Sedona

What do you do when it’s over 100 degrees in the shade? Go to the creek. We are told there is a vortex in Sedona and the water is healing. We are going to be extra healthy when we leave here. 

Spring water in Sedona!

I think Cooper likes Arizona so far. Maybe the heat gets to him and he is too tired to be naughty. He has been extra lovey and content opposed to Moab where he couldn’t sit still and was always on edge. Or maybe he really likes just the two of us and only wants to be around us and no ones else. The wanker bit me last week when I tried to untangled his leash from his legs. Not hard and left no marks but wtf Cooper? Maybe it’s time for 60mg of Prozac instead of 40mg or maybe the vortex will fix him?!  A girl can dream. 

Ryan has recently been introduced to the band Stick Figure. Thanks Corey and Dave. In a one week span, I think we have heard each song, no joke, 75 times. Help. Me.  

****

Maybe it’s some strange magnetic force, or maybe it’s this white-guy reggae, but Sedona is a vortex, man.
I mean, really, clean livin’ or something… drawn to stay here for the rest of our human lives….

And then the heat hits, BAM, like walking into a wall of fire where the ground beneath you burns your feet off, no matter how hobbit-like they may have gotten over the past month or so. We found our own Mordor, and it’s called Arizona… and come to think of it, Cooper makes a perfect Gollum…. and since Emily is always sticking up for him… that must make her Frodo…. I probably just alienated 86% of our readers with my geeky Lord of the Rings references… You’ll get past it for some more wildly entertaining reading.

All Tolkien references aside, Sedona was pretty intriguing. Plenty to see, plenty to do, and a bright sun that will burn your flesh… early morning (while it’s below 90º) workouts are keeping us in fighting shape, but it’s nice to move on to cooler temps….

COOLER TEMPS? Yeah, right.

Ehrenberg, AZ; June 4th, 2017; Afternoon Temp: 111º Farenheight 

Thankfully the BLM (Bureau of Land Management - public land, essentially) road that we found ourselves parked on runs along the Colorado River, which was quite clear and sandy, in contrast to it’s chocolate milk color in Colorado and Utah (above the dam).  I don’t want to think too much about the agricultural runoff (poo and fertilizer) that is likely present in this seemingly clear water as, without the river, we may have burst into flames.  I believe there is a form of sleeping that I will deem “sweeping” or sweat sleeping, which is primarily profuse sweating, with brief periods of sleep here and there.  

Also, I’d like to present a brief PSA.

Please don’t litter.

There was trash scattered along the side of this public land road like you wouldn’t want to believe.  It’s no wonder land gets closed to public.  Think of that next time your BIG GULP or Bud Light vessel is about to be ejected out of your window.  Not to alienate BIG GULP or Bud Light drinkers - simply stating my observations.

Sunset over the Sawtooth Mountains from CA/AZ border


Jack Rabbit at Colorado River Campsite

This morning, June 5, we were bid “Good Morning!” by a Western Diamondback Rattle Snake curled up in front of our step.  I tried to convince myself it wasn’t a rattler and, even though it was just a camouflaged coil lying still in the desert, my heart wouldn’t let my brain be that stupid.  Cooper had been laying outside, probably within 3 feet of the pit viper, for an hour at least.  After we got him inside, the snake stayed absolutely still for nearly 15 minutes.  As it slowly slithered away as a 3 foot long beast, the coon tail and rattle were revealed, confirming my sinking feeling… but… no harm done! 

Morning Visitor - Western Diamondback Rattlesnake
I’d still really like some fire roasted rattle snake

After mellowing out after the snake encounter, and a quick swim to cool off, we headed west for San Diego-ish.
As it turns out, the city of San Diego has begun cracking down on RVs being parked…. anywhere. We even, on a last ditch effort, contacted a San Diego Wal-Mart only to be told that the city would not allow them to allow overnight parking.  That is some serious governing. (One more vote for a converted van in our future). We’re in a trailhead parking lot in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  Anza-Borrego translates to “middle of nowhere.” Although we were feeling somewhat deflated to be in the desert again, this suits us just fine. We got in a quick, but hot, 6 mile trail ride, and now the temperature is below 70º, which feels like nothing short of a miracle.  We’re looking forward to our trip up through California to see a handful of old friends.



Julian Apple Pie, almost as good as Mom's

Julian/San Diego, CA June 5-7

Woke up at Sunset Trailhead in the desert on a mission… that mission was… I have absolutely no idea, other than drive toward San Diego and visit an old friend Pete at the brewing company he works at. (Helms Brewing in Ocean Beach - worth a visit, either for the dank beer or just to see Pete).  Pete can easily be described as jolly. He shipped to San Diego with no real plan, after teaching in his home state of Massachusetts for awhile, and he seems genuinely happy to there in Ocean Beach with his girl Maddy (who we didn’t have the pleasure of meeting) and his puppy.  Seems like a good place to be.

June Gloom in San Diego

Mr. Peter Shea - a welcome sight in San Diego

Also had the pleasure of swinging into “the hood” to see Phil -, a friend from 15 years ago, his two kiddos, wife, and pup. (“the hood” was his phrase - actually a super clean neighborhood in SD).  Phil had my teeth inside him… his forehead actually, one fateful night at a dive “Rock Club” of sorts in Concord, NH called Cafe Eclipse.  On this night, Drexel from Boston was opening for Kicked in the Head (funny when you think of the upcoming event), also from Boston.  It was the actual FIRST song in Drexel’s set (my memory is almost sure it was the song Praise on Them) half of my two front teeth made their way into Phil’s forehead.  Phil was happy to remind me that I said “I have to go home” as he ran back out to see the rest of the show… later going to the ER.  I went a few days with a couple half teeth, and Phil brought the other half of those teeth to school in a medical pee jar.  I think I still have them somewhere.

After seeing ANOTHER hometown friend, Bryan, and talking about travels, Emily and I proceeded to our camper, parked on a pee-smelling street, to sleep through the (actually very quiet in the hood!) night.


Our drive to where we are currently parked, at Chimney Creek Campground (free), about 4 hours north of San Diego, was about 10 miles up a mountain with steep drops along the entire route…. luckily, the road was MUCH more passable that the mountain road we climbed in Virginia- neither of us could have handled another one of those.  This campground boasts 36 sites… 2 others are occupied by PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) Hikers, and that’s it  Absolutely gorgeous up here.  There are pit toilets and a well-fed spigot! High rollers tonight, especially at 6,000 feet!
Canebrake Road, CA
Burnt Roadside Yucca Forest, south of Sequoia National Forest








Imperial Sand Dunes, CA
Imperial Sand Dunes, CA
Imperial Sand Dunes, CA
Imperial Sand Dunes, CA